Installation Tips


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Supporting concrete blocks for outdoor wood burning boiler placement.
Choose a location with firm, level ground, and set four solid concrete blocks on which the stove will sit. A poured concrete slab is also an option.
Flatbed delivery of ezboilers outdoor wood furnaces.
We use a flatbed trailer to deliver our stoves, simplifying the loading and unloading process.
Custom built outdoor furnace moving machine.
Our custom built moving machine is designed to maneuver over uneven surfaces and in tight spaces.


Final installation placement of ezboilers outdoor wood furnace.
Final placement of the stove.
Outdoor wood stove moving machine.
If the owner ever needs to relocate the stove, a forklift can be used in the same way as our machine.
PEX connections at the stove.
Waterline hookups for the stove. The pump pushes heated water through the red pex line into the house, while the blue pex carries cooled water back to the return port on top.


Stove Footprint
When you’re beginning to install your boiler, the footprint comes in handy to position the solid concrete blocks under the legs or pouring a concrete pad.

L = 60 inches
W = 44 inches

L = 48 inches
W = 44 inches

Those measurements are from the outsides of the stove’s legs. Each leg is approximately 3″ square. Therefore, the centered measurements for the EZ-Pro are 57″ x 41″, and for the EZ-Classic are 45″ x 41″. If you use these measurements when placing the solid concrete blocks and measure from the CENTER of each block, your stove should sit on them perfectly.

The factory installed check valve in the water pump needs to be removed and discarded prior to the installation of the pump.

Here are some pictures of the plumbing port connections at the back of the Ezboilers stove.

Pictures of the plumbing connections inside the house.

Here are pictures of the anode rod installation.

Pictures of the GFCI outlet installation.


A few tips to extend the life of your stove


Grounding Rod
A properly installed grounding rod system will protect people from electrical shock, help safeguard expensive electronic equipment, prevent electrolysis, limit neutral-to-ground voltage, and satisfy the NEC along the way.

Electrolysis of water is the decomposition of water (H2O) into oxygen (O2) and hydrogen (H2) gasses when an electric current passes through the water. Free oxygen in the water tank will promote rust formation and eventually cause catastrophic leaking and stove failure. 

Use only a 4GA or larger wire with proper grounding clips. Grind paint away where the wire is attached to the stove to get a solid electrical connection.

Anode rod

An anode rod is commonly used on a water heater to prevent corrosion in the tank. It works for an outdoor boiler too. The easy way to install an anode rod in an Ezboilers stove is to add a tee fitting to the drain port (bottom port) on the back of the stove. The anode rod is then installed in the tee straight into the water jacket, and the drain shutoff valve is installed to the side of the tee. When you drain and flush the stove once every year, It’s a simple matter to remove the anode rod for visual inspection, and replace it when necessary.


GFI Outlet or GFI Breaker
Always use a GFI outlet or GFI breaker on the stove. This will protect the electronics, prolong the life of the stove, and protect the user from shock hazard as well. Use a 12/3 120 volt outdoor wire to supply power to the GFCI outlet. The line can be buried alongside the PEX lines from the stove to the circuit box. The outlet has a “Line” side and a “Load” side clearly marked on it. The wires from the house into the stove are attached to the “Line” side, while the wires to the aquastat and the solenoid on the front of the stove get connected to the “Load” side.

Water Treatment

Once a year during the off season, when the EZ Boiler is not in use, drain and flush the water jacket and refill it with water and a unit of sodium nitrite. Fill the water jacket completely to the top of the vent at this time so that all surfaces of the water jacket will be covered during the off season. This will help prevent rust and corrosion from attacking the top of the water jacket during the idle off season period. If significant amounts of water need to be replenished during the heating season, add enough additional sodium nitrite to maintain protective levels.

Coals and Ash

Pull the ash and coals to the front of the firebox before loading. Be sure to get right down to the firebox metal. This will improve heat transfer to the water jacket and reduce creosote build-up which could lead to creosote corrosion. Make it your daily practice to move the sides of the ash pile where it touches the firebox as well. An undisturbed ash line would allow creosote to build up in one spot, leading to corrosion. It is the number 1 cause of firebox failure. Empty old ashes periodically as needed.

Grease the Solenoid
The solenoid controls the air flow to the firebox. If it fails, there will be no control over the burn rate, and the stove won’t work. At least once a week, grease the solenoid shaft. As with any maintenance around the electrical, disconnect the power first. Clean off the old, dirty grease first, then apply a fresh coating on the solenoid shaft only. Use a Di-Electric grease on the solenoid shaft to prevent rusting and to allow free movement of the solenoid. A regular grease will also work if needed. This will extend the life of the solenoid, and keep the fire burning at the right rate.    

End of Heating Season

Cover the chimney to prevent rain water from getting inside the firebox. Clean out all the ashes and optionally coat the exposed metal with a light coating of oil. This will prevent the firebox from rusting in the off season.

Greasing the solenoid

PEX Tubing

Very easy to work with once you know how. Here is a site with easy to follow directions and good instructional pictures.     How to install PEX


Daily Operation

Corrosion prevention

 Owner’s Manual

How to prepare your fuel